Italy · Pasta & noodles
Ragù alla bolognese.
The slow-cooked meat sauce from Bologna. Less tomato than you think, more patience than you expect.
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The story of ragù.
In Bologna there is no “spaghetti bolognese”. The city’s ragù is served with fresh egg tagliatelle, or layered into lasagne. It is a meat sauce with a little tomato, not a tomato sauce with a little meat.
In 1982 the Accademia Italiana della Cucina registered a reference recipe with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce. Families still argue about the details, but the essentials stay the same: soffritto, beef and pancetta, white wine, milk and hours of slow simmering.
Origin: Emilia-Romagna, Italy
Where to find the ingredients in the US.
- Beef: ask for coarsely ground chuck, or chop skirt steak by hand.
- Pancetta is sold in most supermarkets, often already diced.
- Tagliatelle: fresh egg pasta is best; dried egg tagliatelle are a good backup.
Three steps. That’s it.
What each stage should look like.

Step 1
Soffritto and pancetta.
Melt the pancetta, then soften finely chopped carrot, celery and onion.

Step 2
Brown, then wine.
Brown the beef well, then add the wine and let it evaporate.

Step 3
Low and slow.
Add tomato, simmer for at least 2 hours, and finish with milk.
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Recipe
Ragù alla bolognese.
Prep 20 min · Cook 2 h 30 min · Total 2 h 50 min
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil or butter
- pancetta, finely diced
- small carrot, finely chopped (about 1¾ oz / 50 g)
- celery, finely chopped (about 1¾ oz / 50 g)
- small onion, finely chopped (about 1¾ oz / 50 g)
- coarsely ground beef
- dry white wine
- tomato passata
- whole milk
- beef or vegetable broth, as needed
- salt and black pepper
- fresh egg tagliatelle, to serve
Instructions
- Warm the oil in a heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 5 minutes until the fat melts.
- Add carrot, celery and onion and cook gently for 8–10 minutes, until soft.
- Turn the heat to medium-high, add the beef and cook, breaking it up, until it loses all its pink color and starts to brown.
- Pour in the wine and let it evaporate completely.
- Stir in the passata, lower the heat to a bare simmer, cover partially and cook for at least 2 hours. Add a splash of broth whenever it looks dry.
- Stir in the milk for the last 15 minutes, season with salt and pepper, and toss with freshly cooked tagliatelle and a little pasta water.
Sources consulted: Gambero Rosso. Our own text, with US and metric measurements.
What you’ll need.
Heavy Dutch oven.
Holds a low, steady simmer for hours.
Chef’s knife.
Chop the soffritto finely by hand for the best texture.
Pasta machine.
If you want to make tagliatelle at home.


